Figure 1 - Some holder
selections: Clockwise from top left, a Kodak readyload holder, a
Kodak readyload packet, a Grafmatic, and a standard Fidelity holder.
4x5 filmholders - a bevy of choices
One of the issues that confronts large format photographers
is film holders. With a large format camera, you put a
piece (or several pieces, as we'll see) into a film holder,
which then is closed with a darkslide. This holder is then
inserted into the camera back, the shutter closed, the darkslide
removed, the exposure made, and the the darkslide replaced.
Simple, right? Well, it is. But there are several
problems a holder must solve:
- It must hold the film flat and in the correct location
when inserted into the camera.
- It must be light-tight.
- It must allow for some way to record and indicate
whether the film has been exposed or not, and whether the
holder is loaded or not.
- Naturally, you'd like it to do all those things while
being as small and light as possible. Inexpensive
would be good, too.
For 4x5 photographers, there are currently a handful of
solutions:
- regular film holders, currently manufactured by
Fidelity, Lisco, and a host of other companies, including
Toyo.
- Fancy film holders, such as those made by Linhof.
Some of these use a vacuum to hold the film flat.
- Grafmatics, which are no longer being made but for which
a thriving used market exists.
- Kodak Readyloads
- Fuji Quickloads
- Fuji Quickchange system
- At least two varieties of Mido holders.
Some of these, like the fancy Linhof holders, I have no
experience with and can't comment on. The others I discuss
below.
Note: different film holders give slightly different image
sizes, because the opening at the film plane varies in size from
holder to holder. The sizes I've measured are:
| Holder |
height(mm) |
length(mm) |
| Fidelity Elite |
95 |
120.5 |
| Kodak Readyload |
92.5 |
119 |
| Polaroid 545i |
95.5 |
122 |
| Grafmatic |
95.5 |
117.5 |
The polaroid holder will produce a differently sized image on
a quickload or readyload packet than on the Polaroid film, which
has a built in paper mask that sets the image size.
Regular filmholders are still the mainstay of the 4x5 world,
and for the large format world that's not 4x5, they are often
the single choice.
The usual film holder is dual sided, with with a darkslide
for each side. Each holder will hold two sheets of film,
one behind each darkslide.
I know of three main manufacturers for regular holders,
Lisco, Fidelity and Riteway. Rumor has it that all three
are actually made in the same factory. The Riteway
holders have a clever little button which prevents the
darkslide from being pulled unless the holder is in a camera.
This interlock does not work correctly in some cameras, which
would, I expect be a major hassle.
The darkslides have tabs on them for you to grab, and the
tabs have a white/silver side and a black side. Virtually
all photographers use the two sides to distinguish between
holders which hold exposed fim and those which hold unexposed
film. Different photographers use different systems to
distinguish so if you find yourself sharing or borrowing holders
with another photographer you will need to make sure you both
understand what convention is used.
My preference is:
Note that this
convention avoids the important errors: 1) trying to
expose an unloaded holder, which loses an exposure. 2)
exposing a previously exposed film, which loses two exposures.
Regular holders are
simple, reliable devices. Their only shortcomings are:
-
they're heavy and
bulky
-
they must be
loaded and unloaded by the photographer (or assistant),
which makes an opportunity for dust on the film.
-
they're not cheap
- figure abut $15 apiece new, and you'll need more than you
think unless you want to reload holders during a session
One of the tasks
which seems daunting when you start out in large format is
loading holders - not because it's a difficult task but because
it must, of course, be done in the dark, and it's unfamiliar,
and you don't want to load the film wrong. It's not a
difficult process but I've written a little page that describes
how to do it, complete with
pictures.
Packet film (Readyloads,
Quickloads, Polaroid)
Kodak and Fuji also
sell 4x5 film in a preloaded form. The Kodak system is
called Readyloads, and the Fuji system is called Quickloads.
Both systems involve the film being in a cardboard envelope-like
packet, which is inserted into a holder, which is in turn loaded
into the camera. Instead of withdrawing a darkslide, you
pull the cardboard envelope part way out, which leaves the film
in the holder, ready to be exposed. After exposure, you
run the cardboard envelope back in, and then withdraw the whole
light-tight packet from the holder.
Although Kodak used
to market a Readyload system which had two sheets of film per
packet, the current product holds one sheet per packet; Fuji
Quickloads hold one sheet per packet.
The advantages of
Readyloads and Quickloads are:
They're not without
disadvantages, however:
-
Both Quickloads
and Readyloads are more expensive than buying boxed sheet
film and loading holders - more expensive by more than a
factor of two.
-
Not all the
emulsions available in 4x5 are available in
Readyloads/Quickloads. Most notably, the only B&W
emulsion widely distributed in the USA is Tmax-100 (TMX).
However, Fuji Acros is direct imported from Japan by Badger
Graphic (www.badgergraphic.com)
The older two sheet
Kodak Readyloads were plagued by the fact that they were
perfectly reliable for some people and unreliable for others.
However, the new single sheet Readyloads appear to be very
reliable.
Polaroid sells their direct positive materials in 4x5 in
packets, too. Most interesting for B&W workers is Type 55
P/N, which can give either a print or a negative. The
negatives are excellent, fine grain, high quality, athough no
development control is available.
A more in depth review of packet film systems can be found at
www.butzi.net/reviews/readyquick.htm
A Grafmatic is a cunningly designed film holder which holds
six sheets of film. Each sheet of film is held in a thin
metal septum. Six septums are stacked and inserted into
the grafmatic body, and the mechanism of the body allows the
photographer to circulate the stack, bringing each sheet to the
front to be exposed, and then shuffling it to the back to bring
another sheet forward. Rather than attempt to document
this I'll point you to the grafmatic manual on the graflex.org
web site at
http://www.graflex.org/speed-graphic/grafmatic/ which
hopefully will make it all clear. Trust that the thing
actually works, however improbable or Rube Goldbergian it might
seem.
Alas, grafmatics are no longer manufactured. A thriving
used market exists, with a continuous stream going by on Ebay.
Expect to pay about $70 US for a clean working grafmatic.
If you buy one, make sure all the septums are present and are
unbent. With missing or bent septums the grafmatic is
useless.
Grafmatics are slightly more compact than regular holders,
and about the same weight. Enough regular holders to hold
six sheets of film would cost about $45, slightly more than half
what a clean used grafmatic would run you.
Grafmatics have other advantages beside being somewhat more
compact than regular holders. For instance, you can move
from one sheet of film to another with astonishing rapidity, an
advantage in a portrait session or in rapidly changing
conditions.
The only downside to graphmatics is that if you pull the
darkslide with the shutter open (a common large format error)
it's possible to fog all six sheets of film.

Mido holders were made only for a brief time, and sold
directly by the manufacturer, and through Brandess-Kalt.
There are (at least) two different versions.
Although I've not seen or handled the version I holders, I
have managed to gather some information on them. Version
one is like a reloadable readyload packet. The film is
slipped under flaps on a central carrier, and then the carrier
(and two sheets of film) are slipped into an envelope. To
make an exposure, the envelope and carrier are slipped into a
holder, and the envelope is partly withdrawn, just as for a
readyload packet. After the exposure, the envelope is
pushed back in.
User reports of the reliability of the version I system vary
widely, with some people reporting that they are impossible to
load, some people reporting light leaks, and some people
reporting unqualified success. My understanding is that
the inventor was constantly improving this system and that there
may be several subversions of the version I system.
Version II is fundamentally different. With the version
II holders, the actual film holder is a very thin conventional
two sided holder, complete with darkslides, loading flaps, etc.
In order to get correct film positioning, this thin holder is
inserted into a clamshell like spacer, which wraps around the
holder and pads it to the dimensions of a regular 4x5 double
sided film holder.
The Mido II holders are easy to load (or at least as easy as
regular holders). However, in the quest to reduce the
thickness of the holder, the little recess that allows you to
get a fingernail under the film has been eliminated, which makes
unloading difficult.
At one point, many 4x10 cameras used the thin Mido II holders
exclusively, since Mido were the only manufacturer of 4x10
holders. Users of the 4x10 Mido II holders report various
problems, mostly pinhole light leaks in the darkslides and in
the septum that separates the two sides of the holder.
Users of the 4x5 Mido holders report better success, with the
most common complaint being light leaks between the clamshell
spacer and the thin holder. Several users have commented that
the problems with the spacer centered around inserting the
holder in the camera back, and that with care the system is
eminently usable.
The thin Mido II holders do represent quite a savings in
space and weight over conventional holders and grafmatics.
A Mido II setup to carry 12 sheets of film weighs 27.6 ounces
loaded; with regular Fidelity holders the weight would be 36
ounces, and with grafmatics, 34 ounces. The Mido setup for 12
sheets would consume less than half the volume needed for
regular holders and just more than half the space needed for
grafmatics.
The big difficulty with the Mido II system appears to be that
it is out of production and appears only rarely on the used
market.
One of the big disadvantages of large format is that the
camera pack tends to get both bulky and heavy. Making a
good choice from the available options for filmholders can make
a big difference. The following tables gives weights for
different number of sheets of film. As you can see,
Readyloads and Quickloads are lighter than regular holders and
grafmatics, even for small amounts of film. Once the
number of sheets to be carries (assuming no reloading) grows,
the advantage quickly becomes overwhelming.
|
# sheets |
Readyload |
quickload |
Fidelity |
grafmatic |
|
6 |
12.67 |
14.32 |
18 |
17 |
|
12 |
15.64 |
18.94 |
36 |
34 |
|
18 |
18.61 |
23.56 |
54 |
51 |
|
24 |
21.58 |
28.18 |
72 |
68 |
|
30 |
24.55 |
32.8 |
90 |
85 |
|
36 |
27.52 |
37.42 |
108 |
102 |
|
42 |
30.49 |
42.04 |
126 |
119 |
|
48 |
33.46 |
46.66 |
144 |
136 |
|
54 |
36.43 |
51.28 |
162 |
153 |
|
60 |
39.4 |
55.9 |
180 |
170 |
|
66 |
42.37 |
60.52 |
198 |
187 |
|
72 |
45.34 |
65.14 |
216 |
204 |
|
78 |
48.31 |
69.76 |
234 |
221 |
|
84 |
51.28 |
74.38 |
252 |
238 |
|
90 |
54.25 |
79 |
270 |
255 |
|
96 |
57.22 |
83.62 |
288 |
272 |
|
102 |
60.19 |
88.24 |
306 |
289 |
Weights are in ounces.