Like every photographer who hasn't gone completely
digital, I'm constantly re-evaluating that decision.
There are compelling reasons for me to stick with film
capture - the ability of digital capture to handle extreme subject
brightness ranges, the robustness of digital equipment out in the real
world environment (e.g. rain, fog, and dew), and the relative lack of
resolution on a par with a 4x5 sheet of film.
On the other hand, the smooth tonality of digital
capture, along with the incredible ease of making lots of exposures and
dealing with them digitally - it beckons. If I could buy a digital
back that offered something to the resolution of a 4x5 sheet of film,
I'd probably do it. But the prices remain above what I can
justify, so I remain firmly in the hybrid film/digital camp, and I'll
stay there until the prices drop.
In the meantime, I'm left wanting to optimize the hybrid
film/digital process, and get the best results I can. Is there
more performance that can be wrung out of film if we abandon the notion
that we're going to print it on gelatin silver paper, and tune
everything for scanning?
So I've decided to tune that process - pick the best
film for scanning, the best developer for scanning, develop the film to
the optimum densities for scanning. Before I can
optimize the process, though, I have to first be able to control it.
That means I need to be able to make exposures on several different
films, and develop the negatives in several different developers, and
get negatives with the same contrast. It's important to change
only one variable at a time - and to do that, you need to control all
the others.
The Films
Most of the time, I use the film I consider my old reliable friend - TMX, aka TMax-100 or what Kodak is now calling Tmax 100 Professional (or
some similar variation).
I like it, primarily because I've used it for so long that its
various shortcomings have become part of my thinking. I'm used to
the tonal rendition it offers, and I like the fine grain and sharpness.
And, joy of joys, it can be bought in Readyloads, which I consider a
great convenience.
Tmax-400 is another favorite of mine. I have a bunch in
the freezer, so I'll do the work for this film as well. I'm
interested to see how well it fares when scanned compared to TMX and
Acros.
Finally, another candidate is Fuji Acros 100 - similar to TMX. I
compared TMX and Acros a while back, when I was silver printing.
Now that I'm scanning the film instead of doing optical enlarging, it's
time for a rematch. Alas, Acros is difficult to find in loose
sheets (easy in Quickloads at $2.50 a sheet) which makes it expensive to
do extensive testing with it. On top of that, Acros has
substantially shorter development times than TMX and TMY, so that it's
hard to combine development runs. My plan is to do the testing
with TMX and TMY, then go back and do testing with Acros where it seems
to make sense. That way, I don't waste time and money testing
combinations that are likely to be losers.
There are other films of interest - Ilford's Delta 100 and Delta 400,
and FP-4+ and HP-5+. But for now, I'm ignoring them. I think
I'll have my hands full and learn plenty from doing the three films.
Later, when I'm done, I'll go back and reconsider other films.
Having mapped out the process with these three, it should be easy to add
others to the set later. My experience tells me that I learn a lot
from the first time through a process, so it's wise to go through it
once with a limited set and then add more later, after I've learned
those lessons (or, as my daughter so neatly puts it, "Oh, NO!
Another God-damn learning experience!!!").
The Developers
Using the same reasoning, I'm limiting the set of developers.
I've already done a rough and ready comparison of Tmax-RS (diluted
1+9) and XTOL for scanning, and the Tmax-RS finished a definite
last. So Tmax-RS, my developer of choice for many years, is
not on the list.
Xtol, though, produces negatives which scan nicely. My plans
are to evaluate XTOL at four different dilutions (1+0, 1+1, 1+2,
1+3). Why try them all? Because I'm wondering what
difference I'll see in sharpness, grain, and noise when scanning as
the dilution is changed. Is there an optimum dilution?
Enquiring minds demand to know.
I've learned a few things about scanning negatives by going back and
scanning older 4x5 negatives. One negative I have scans
particularly well - I've made a beautiful print that's about 40" x
50" from it, and it looks awesome. And it turns out that
negative was developed in the old standby - D-76. My notes are
fuzzy and inconsistent on the dilution - it might have been
straight, or it might have been 1+1. So I'll evaluate both.
Finally, I keep hearing about the wonderful attributes of a much
maligned developer - Microdol-X. In the small format world,
it's despised for it's softness and loss of film speed. In the
hybrid world, I'm finding a much greater need for smoothness than
sharpness, and a loss of film speed doesn't bother me at all.
So Microdol-X, both straight (1+0) and diluted (1+3) is in the mix
as well.
Are there other developers that would be interesting to evaluate?
Sure. A real evaluation of Tmax-RS would be a good plan.
I'd love to do pyro based developers, particularly the pyrocatechol
based ones. And D-23 is on the list as well. But again,
better to proceed with a reasonable first set, work out the
methodology, and then expand later.
The Calibration Process
In Ansel Adam's epic tome, The Negative, he
outlines a film testing procedure that suggests that we might find the
normal development times for a film/developer combo by exposing three
sheets of film, processing them, measuring the zone I, zone V, and zone
VIII densities, and iteratively adjusting development times until we get
the results we want - film calibration by successive approximation, if
you will.
Adams is often referred to as St. Ansel, and if he actually used this
process to do film testing, then he surely had the patience of a saint.
I, however, do not.
Instead, I will use the following changes - first, instead of
exposing three sheets of film using my camera (and thus capturing things
like shutter variation, meter variation) I'll make the exposures on one
sheet of film, under my enlarger, using a Stouffer 31 step .1 density
step wedge.
And, instead of finding the development times by successive
approximation, I'll make three runs at carefully chosen development
times, and I'll use the measurements from those three sheets of film to
build a curve that describes the variation in Zone VIII density as a
function of development time. Given that curve, I'll then use it
to calculate the times to give the right Zone VIII densities for N-2,
N-1, N, N+1, N+2 development.
Furthermore, if I'm very clever (and moderately lucky) those three
development times can be chosen so that they'll do the trick for all
the films I'm calibrating - so I can combine development runs on the
Jobo and calibrate all three films in parallel. (Note:
although this was my plan at the start, it turned out the times for
Acros were too different from those for TMX and TMY, so I couldn't
combine runs)
What looked like hundreds of development runs on the old Jobo has now
been reduced to three runs per developer/dilution. For the eight
developers and dilutions I want to test, that works out to 24 Jobo runs.
At two runs per hour, that works out to 12 hours of standing in front of
the Jobo, listening to it whirr along while I wait for the timer to
beep. Clearly the first step is a visit to the library to lay in a
supply of mystery novels!
How It's Done
The process I've described is roughly how I got the development
times for TMX and Acros in Tmax-RS that I've published
in this article.
Here's how it works: I did a three development runs with TMX,
in Tmax-RS diluted 1+9, at 75F. The development times were 5
minutes, 10 minutes, and 15 minutes.
Measure the density difference between the step that represented Zone
I and the step that represented Zone VIII (21 steps on my step wedge,
one third of a stop in exposure per step), I got the following results
Time (minutes)
Net Zone VIII density
5
1.0
10
1.54
15
1.93
Now, I can make a graph of these data:
There are two interesting things to notice. First,
the three points make a nice smooth curve. Second, they don't
quite make a line - but they're close.
It turns out that I can fit a simple curve (a second
order polynomial, in fact) to the points, and get an equation for that
curve. That equation gives me a way to predict what Zone VIII
density I'll get for any development time reasonably close to those
three test data points. That is, if I want to know what Zone VIII
density I'll get if I develop TMX in Tmax-RS for 12 minutes, I can get
it. If I want to know what density I'll get for, say, one minute,
or 100 minutes, I probably can't. 1 minute and 100 minutes are
extrapolations instead of interpolations, and they're too far away from
the test data (too much of an extrapolation) for me to be confident.
But for anything between 5 minutes and 15 minutes, or even between, say,
3 minutes and 20 minutes, I'm pretty golden.
Now, all I need is a table of the desired Zone VIII
densities for N development, for N-1, N-2, N+1, N+2, and I can happily
predict away.
That's it. I take that curve, calculate the
development times for N-2 through N+2 development, and I'm done.
Three sheets of film, three development runs, some measurements, and I
have everything from N-2 to N+2, in the bag.
Thinking is way easier than working.
The Details
Ok,
when I develop film, I do it in my Jobo CPP-2. The film goes into
Jobo 3010 Master film drums.
The rest of the process is pretty standard:
Prewet - I use no prewet. My testing shows no difference
between films developed with a prewet in the Jobo, and films
developed without except for changes in development time.
Since I calibrate my own development times, I save time and don't
use a prewet stage.
The specific development time and temperature varies depending
on film and developer, of course. It's listed with each combo,
below in the results section.
Stop Bath: I use a 30 second stop bath. The stop
bath is 1.25% acetic acid.
Fixer: I use a 5 minute fix in Kodak Rapid Fixer, diluted
as per the instructions except that I don't use the part B
(Hardener) for 4x5 film.
Clearing agent: I use a 2 minute clearing agent bath.
In particular, I use Heico Permawash, diluted according to
instructions.
Wash: I use an 8 minute wash. For normal film
development, I do the wash in the Jobo, changing the wash water
every 30 seconds. For film testing, to save time I wash the
film in a tray with running water, which frees up the Jobo for the
next development run.