I've been a member of the Monday Night New Work Review Group
since 1998, and I think it's done wonders to improve the quality
of my photography.
The principle is simple - meet every other week with a bunch
of photographers, everyone brings new work, and you spend the
evening reviewing the new work.
It's simple. It's fun. It's inexpensive.
And, it works.
I borrowed a USAF 1951 test target to continue the experiments with
scanning described in the article below. When I scanned it using
both the Microtek software for my ArtixScan 1800f and with Silverfast
AI, I got a heck of a surprise. Check it out.
I took a few minutes off from the process tuning work, and checked
out the results of scanning B&W negatives in color and converting
to grayscale in Photoshop. The results surprised me, and they'll
probably surprise you, too!
Although I'm always looking at the current contenders for replacing large
format film with digital capture, they're not there yet. So, I've decided to see how much the hybrid film/digital process can be
optimized if we are willing to tailor negatives to scanning instead of
printing on gelatin-silver papers.
The first step in this optimization process is to get complete control of
film development for a variety of developers and the films I regularly use.
The result is a huge table of film development times and temperatures,
for N-2, N-1, N, N+1, N+2, for D-76 (both straight and 1+1), Microdol-X
(both straight and 1+3), and XTOL (straight, 1+1, 1+2, 1+3).
I'm like those zany Scrubbing Bubbles - I do the work, so you don't have
to!
And check back for parts 2, 3, etc. Now that I have the development
stuff done, I'm ready to get started with the interesting stuff.
The first question everyone asks when they find out I'm using
an EOS-5d is "How big can you print?" That turns out to be
a simple question with a complicated answer. Prints from
digital capture and film capture scale differently, so the
answer is "It depends". In fact, it depends on a lot of
different factors.
For some time now, I've been very dubious about
claims that you're better off uprezzing an image in steps of
10%, rather than just doing it all in one shot.
It's time to put it to the test. I compare
the results of photoshop's bicubic, bicubic smoother, and the
much ballyhooed Staircase Interpolation method, and we look at
the results to see which is best.
Conclusion: don't bother with staircase
interpolation.
Some time ago, a really great photographer (Doug Plummer)
came over, and we did some digital printing of one of his
photographs so he could get a feel for what digital output is
like.
Afterwards, Doug commented that he'd wished he'd seen me edit
a photograph (using Photoshop) from scratch, so that he could
see how I went about it. That idea stayed in my mind, and
just recently it occurred to me that I could write a very
interesting article which showed each step taken.
And that's what I've done with Anatomy
of a Photograph - and you can switch back and forth between
'before' and 'after' versions for each step, by rolling the
mouse cursor onto and off of the image.
For something like 80 years, black and white photography has
been dominated by what I call the Silver Standard - the air dried, glossy,
fiber-based gelatin silver print.
Inkjet printing has changed all the rules. It's time
for us to let go of the Silver Standard and move on. It'll be ok.
Really. Everything is going to be fine.
I took all the silver prints I had around the
workroom, and I put them in boxes and put them away because I no
longer refer to them when I'm making a digital print. The
digital prints are now the standard of comparison.
That provoked some thinking about gelatin silver
prints, digital prints, the properties of both, and why I seem to be
drifting permanently away from conventional projection printing on
gelatin silver paper.
Black and white images printed on my epson 9600
printer are perfectly neutral - which makes them look a bit
lifeless. I spent some time exploring ways to 'tone' the
images, including duotoning, color balance, and curves. In the
end, I chose the curves technique as the best of the choices.
You can download the curves I use in this article.
This article is still a rough draft - watch for
refinements and examples to be added.
For years, I produced hand made, labor intensive
gelatin silver prints. Then I tried digital printing, and got
great prints. And now, everything I knew about prints, the
value of prints, and print pricing has been made obsolete.
When Ansel Adams and Fred Archer
introduced the Zone system in 1939 there were no VC papers, and so one of the goals of the Zone system was to plan
negative exposure and development so that the visualized print could be made on
Grade 2 paper. Instead of graded papers, Variable Contrast papers now
dominate the market, allowing a printer to vary the contrast of the material across an
extreme range. This raises the question - Why not just give all of our film
the same development, and then make any needed adjustments using the controls VC
paper gives us?
That's what I wanted to know, and
when I went looking for the answers, I found very little information. This
article summarizes the results from my first experiment.
My recent move (and switch from
municipal water to well water) forced me to recalibrate all my development
times. I took advantage of the opportunity to do a rough comparison of
the two black and white films available in packets - Kodak Tmax-100 (aka TMX
and 100Tmax) and Fuji Neopan 100 Acros.
My article on calibrating a dichroic
enlarging head for use as a VCCE light source when printing
on variable contrast black and white printing papers. This is
an updated version of what appeared in Photo Techniques in
February 1998.
An article I wrote discussing color theory,
how it applies to VC papers, filtration, and a whole host of
myths surrounding black and white printing on VC materials.
I teach one on one darkroom lessons. This was written as
a handout for the first session, dealing with selecting black and white film
and covering the basics of exposure.
This was written for the second session, covering film developing. It
covers loading tanks, reel type, developer choice, and the whole process of
developing film, from getting the film out of the cassette and into the tank
through drying it.
Although there are some photographers who are happy to hide
their light under a bushel, most of us would like it if our work got plenty
of exposure. In fact, we’d all like to be making boatloads of money selling
our photographs, but most of us end up settling for just getting the work
out there and seen by people. And, in the end, if you want to sell work,
you first have to get people to look at it.
This article examines various ways of getting more exposure
for your work.
Four years have passed since I wrote the original article, and some
things have changed. Here's a revised look at what I'm thinking
about photography on the web.
Subtitled
"what the scumbags are doing, and what
you should do about it", this is my lessons learned article about detecting copyright infringement, and dealing with it,
including a little bit about how the Digital Millennium
Copyright Act (aka the DMCA) is actually your friend.
For years people have argued about whether there was
any real difference between the Zone VI modified Pentax Digital
Spotmeter and the unmodified meter. Since I now happen to own
one of each, I seized the opportunity to compare them head to head.
I
examine an article by Alan Ross on the modifications (the one on the
calumet web site), some scanned pages from the old Zone VI catalog,
some criticism leveled at my data by Kirk Gittings, and decide that
a) the modifications do not improve the accuracy of the meter, and
b) so much time has elapsed since I first published my data that I
no longer feel my conclusions are tentative at all.
Ok, it's not exactly an article, but it IS copies of
the Rodenstock literature on large format and enlarging lenses, scanned and on
the web. And where else on this web site should I put this sort of
stuff?
My lessons learned (and suggestions) from
my very brief (so far) period doing production photographs
for plays. Tips on technique, equipment, materials, etc.